Adventure
of a Lifetime

Boutique Edwardian hotel in a quiet residential neighbourhood. Exceptional service, stunning Bay views. This is old San Francisco money energy — refined, quiet, beautiful.

Rock and roll motel in the Tenderloin with a pool and serious attitude. Every band that played SF stayed here. Fun, eccentric, and surprisingly good value.

Set inside a historic fort with actual Bay views. One of the best-located hostels in America — private rooms available.

The most celebrated bakery in America. Go morning of departure — country bread, croissants, morning buns. Queue outside at 8am. Worth every minute.

No-frills counter serving the freshest clam chowder and Dungeness crab since 1912. Cash only. Queue outside. An SF institution you cannot skip.

The whole roasted chicken (for two, 45 min wait) is possibly the best chicken dish in America. Book lunch before you leave the city.

Wildly creative, slightly unhinged Chinese-American food in the Mission. The salt cod fried rice and kung pao pastrami are iconic. Dinner the night before you leave.

Cross the Golden Gate and immediately pull into the Headlands. The view back to the bridge with SF skyline is the best photograph you'll ever take. Go at sunrise for empty roads.

Clifftop trail on the far west of the city — ruins of the Sutro Baths, wave-battered rocks, Golden Gate in the distance. 45 minutes of pure wildness inside a city.

Saturday farmers market is the best in California. Grab supplies for the road — cheese, charcuterie, fruit, artisan everything. A moving pantry for Highway 1.

1901 Life-Saving Station right on the headlands. Arts & Crafts interior, fireplaces, ocean views. Six rooms — romantic, historic, utterly unlike anything else.

Cluster of cottages and rooms on the Arena Cove bluffs. Fantastic ocean views, private and peaceful. Exactly the vibe you want on a road trip night stop.

Glamping tents and cabins right on the beach 20 min south. If the weather's good, sleeping with the sound of the Pacific is unforgettable.

Tiny, eccentric pie and bakery café run by a mother-daughter duo. People drive hours for the pies. The lemon curd tart will change you. Get there early — they sell out.

Worker-owned co-op with brilliant local food, great wine selection from Mendocino coast wineries. The kind of community hub that makes small-town America remarkable.

Proper smoked BBQ in what feels like the end of the world. Ribs, brisket, cold beer, ocean air. Ideal dinner with Dara.

115 feet tall, 145 steps, built in 1908 after the 1906 earthquake destroyed the original. The views from the top are staggering. You can stay overnight in the lighthouse keeper's cottages.

BLM land with sea arches, sea stacks, puffins, harbor seals. Wild and completely uncrowded. Go at low tide — check the tide tables the morning you arrive.

Watch fishing boats come in. Local abalone divers sometimes sell their catch here. The cove at sunset turns pink and gold — one of those moments you'll remember forever.

Directly on the lake on the Nevada side. Lodge-style luxury — stone fireplaces, lake-view suites, infinity pool over the water. One of the finest resort hotels in America.

South Lake Tahoe boutique hotel with private beach and pier. Rooms facing the lake are extraordinary. Good spa for recovery days.

Fun, adventure-themed boutique motel in South Lake. Outdoor fire pits, cool design, social vibe. Great for a road trip group.

Historic lakeside resort with cabins, beach access, and the famous Beacon Bar & Grill on the water. Affordable and atmospheric.

Floor-to-ceiling windows, the lake right there. California-refined menu. Have the sunset dinner here — it's a proper special occasion meal.

Right on the lake, open-air deck. Famous "Rum Runner" cocktail. Excellent fish tacos and burgers. The vibe is perfect — casual lakeside paradise.

South Lake health-focused breakfast and lunch spot. Incredible açaí bowls, grain salads, and wraps. Perfect post-hike fuel.

Hawaiian fusion dinner spot — unexpected and excellent. The Kona kampachi and miso black cod are outstanding.

The most photographed spot in California. Hike down (steep!) to Vikingsholm Castle — a 1929 Scandinavian-style mansion. Kayak through the bay past Fannette Island.

Nevada side — crystal clear water over massive granite boulders. Lake Tahoe Shakespeare Festival performs here in July. Bring picnic, arrive before 9am in summer.

The 165-mile trail circles the lake at elevation. Do the Tahoe Meadows section near Incline Village for 2-3 hours of stunning high alpine walking.

Take the cable car up for panoramic views of the entire lake and Nevada desert. Top restaurant for lunch with jaw-dropping views. Runs in summer.

"The Pink Lady" — 1926 Mediterranean-style landmark perched above La Jolla Cove. Rooftop pool, ocean views, old-money California glamour. Absolute classic.

1888 Victorian beachfront resort on Coronado Island. Marilyn Monroe filmed Some Like It Hot here. The white beach is extraordinary. Take the ferry from Downtown San Diego.

Boutique hotel in the Gaslamp Quarter downtown — central, stylish, excellent rooftop pool and bar. Walk everywhere from here.

Consistently rated best hostel in San Diego — private rooms available, central Gaslamp location, rooftop parties most nights.

Three-level restaurant above La Jolla Cove — rooftop terrace is the spot for sunset dinner. California cuisine at its finest. Book the terrace weeks ahead.

Wrestling-themed taco shop, voted best in the city for years. The Surfin' California burrito (fries inside) is life-changing. $10 and worth every cent.

Little Italy — stunning converted warehouse, raw bar, incredible fish and chips, craft cocktails. The best fish restaurant in San Diego.

North Park neighbourhood — epic pork-focused street food. Triple Threat pork sandwich (pork belly + pulled pork + egg) is insane. Outdoor seating, cold beer.

Pastry chef Karen Krasne creates the most beautiful cakes and desserts you've ever seen. Go for tea and something outrageous in Little Italy.

Arrive 7–8am. Wild sea lions right on the rocks. Snorkelling in the ecological reserve — leopard sharks in July, fish everywhere. The Children's Pool has the largest seal colony.

1,200-acre urban park housing 17 museums, the San Diego Zoo, botanical gardens, and the gorgeous Spanish Colonial architecture of El Prado. Full day minimum.

Cliffside trails above one of the last old-growth torrey pine forests, dropping to pristine beach. Sunrise here is extraordinary.

Consistently rated America's #1 beach. White silver sand, Hotel Del backdrop, wide open, rarely crowded. Take the ferry from downtown — it's part of the experience.

Point Loma — tide pools, whale migration corridor, and the best 360° view of San Diego Harbour, the bay, and Coronado. Sunset here is spectacular.

Literally on the sand in Santa Monica. White-shingled New England beach house look, impeccable rooms, beds you'll want to live in forever. The best beach hotel in LA.

Roy Choi-designed hotel in a converted 1964 building. Incredible rooftop pool, great restaurants, genuinely hip without being insufferable. Central to everything.

Quirky studios right in Venice Beach. Kitchen facilities for self-catering, surf vibes, steps from the boardwalk. Great for soaking up the Venice atmosphere.

Hostel right on the boardwalk. Private rooms available. Rooftop deck with ocean views. The location is unbeatable for the price.

The most celebrated deli/bakery in LA. Smoked fish, house-cured meats, incredible pastries. Arrive early for the morning rush. Sunday here is a religion.

Reservation almost impossible to get but worth trying. Italian-ish, whole animal, spectacular pasta, stunning industrial space. If you get a table, go.

Century-old food hall with 30+ vendors. Eggslut, Sticky Rice, Berlin Currywurst, Lula's Tamales. Lunch here is an event. Go weekday to avoid weekend crowds.

Chef Niki Nakayama's kaiseki restaurant — 13-course Japanese omakase. Featured in Chef's Table. Book 2 months ahead if you want to try. Worth every dollar.

Downtown — Northern Italian done perfectly. The tagliatelle bolognese and wood-fired lamb are extraordinary. Great Italian wine list.

Nashville hot chicken in LA. Queue is brutal but moves fast. The "Howlin'" level heat is genuinely dangerous. Start at "Country" if you're not a masochist.

Free gallery (parking $20), Richard Meier's travertine building is one of America's finest. Impressionist collection, Monet, Cézanne. Gardens designed by Robert Irwin. Views of the entire city.

Park below and hike up (45 min) or drive. Observatory is free. The Hollywood Sign view and the city stretching to the ocean at golden hour is the quintessential LA moment.

Two blocks from the boardwalk chaos — actual canals with bridges, ducks, and beautiful houses. Completely peaceful. A secret neighbourhood that surprises everyone.

Two floors of magnificent chaos — an art installation inside a bookshop. The spiral tunnel made of books alone is worth it. Spend an afternoon here.

Drive the ridge from Laurel Canyon to the 405. The panoramic view of the San Fernando Valley on one side and LA basin on the other is extraordinary.

Arts & Crafts lodge-style hotel with a private entrance directly into California Adventure. Nightly campfire storytelling, Craftsman architecture, three pools. You feel the magic before you enter the parks.

10 min walk from the parks, free shuttle, proper resort feel at half the on-property price. Pool, garden, surprisingly lovely for the price.

Suite-style rooms with kitchen — great for three people sharing. Free breakfast included. Walking distance to the parks.

Build your own lightsaber at Savi's Workshop ($250 but extraordinary). Drink blue or green milk at Oga's Cantina. Millennium Falcon: Smugglers Run — everyone gets a role.

Buy the day before on the app. Book your first ride the second the park opens (midnight in the app). You'll ride everything before noon without queueing.

Indiana Jones Adventure, Haunted Mansion, Pirates of the Caribbean, Space Mountain. Stay for World of Color show in California Adventure at 9pm.

Guardians of the Galaxy: Mission Breakout, Radiator Springs Racers (Cars Land is stunning), Incredicoaster. Then Galaxy's Edge all afternoon.

Sit-down restaurant in a gorgeous 1920s-replica building. Actually excellent food — not typical park dining. The Monte Cristo sandwich is famous. Book well ahead.

All-suite hotel — every room is a 650sq ft suite. Enormous beds, deep soaking tubs, excellent pools. The gondola canal is absurd and wonderful. Often cheaper than you'd expect.

Steve Wynn's masterpiece — genuinely the most luxurious hotel on the Strip. Botanical garden, incredible pool, the best casino design in Vegas.

The hippest hotel on the Strip — excellent restaurants (including secret pizza place on Floor 14), three pools, the Chandelier Bar is spectacular.

Downtown Fremont Street — Vegas's older, grittier, more interesting neighbourhood. Stadium swim pool, adults-only hotel. Escape the Strip energy.

8-seat secret restaurant inside Jaleo at the Cosmopolitan. 20-course avant-garde tasting menu by the man who fed Puerto Rico. Book months ahead. A once-in-a-decade meal.

L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon at MGM — the late master's best restaurant outside Paris. The black truffle tart and langoustine ravioli are extraordinary.

No signage. Take the escalator up to Floor 14, follow the hallway. New York-style pizza by the slice, $5, hidden from tourists. The best thing in Vegas that nobody knows about.

Japanese-influenced oyster bar on Paradise Road. Where Vegas locals eat when they want great food without the show. The omakase sushi counter is exceptional.

Thomas Keller's French brasserie. The weekend brunch is legendary — croque madame, eggs Benedict, perfect pastries. Join the queue.

The 160,000 sq ft LED sphere on the east end of the Strip. Darren Aronofsky's "Postcard from Earth" film experience is jaw-dropping — book tickets online. Unlike anything.

Every 15-30 minutes, 1,000 fountains choreographed to music rise eight storeys high. Free, 9pm-midnight. Stand at the railing — not across the street. You'll cry slightly.

45 minutes north. Ancient red sandstone formations on fire at sunset. Wave formations, petroglyphs, complete Mars-scape. June sunrise here before it gets hot.

Set entirely on/in/around a 1.5 million-gallon pool. Water-based acrobatics that seem physically impossible. Book mid-price seats — view is better than front row. 90 minutes of wonder.

America's only museum dedicated to the nuclear age. Fascinating, sobering, unexpected. Nevada's nuclear test history is extraordinary and little-known.

Built in 1905, steps from the South Rim. Theodore Roosevelt, Albert Einstein, and every US president have stayed here. Canyon-view rooms are extraordinary. Book 6 months ahead.

Historic 1935 lodge by Mary Colter right at the trailhead. Rim Cabins have canyon views from bed. More affordable than El Tovar, equally atmospheric.

If rim lodges are full (they often are), Tusayan village 7 miles south. The Grand Hotel is the best here — pool, good restaurant, easy early morning rim access.

Canyon views, 1905 dark timber interior, white tablecloths. Dinner reservation essential — book when you book the lodge. The bison tenderloin is excellent.

Classic American diner inside Bright Angel Lodge. Pre-hike breakfast here is a tradition — enormous portions, canyon views, strong coffee.

Stock up for hike lunches here. Sandwiches, trail mix, electrolyte drinks. The only sensible option for day-hike nutrition.

The canyon changes colour as light enters it — orange, then red, then gold. The silence before the tourist crowds arrive is profound. Set your alarm for 4:30am. You will not regret it.

1.8 miles return, steep but achievable. The first true canyon perspective hike. 360° canyon views — completely different from the rim. Start at first light, before heat arrives.

13 miles rim-to-rim, flat, multiple viewpoints — Mather, Yavapai, Mohave, Hopi. Take the free shuttle back. Sunset from Hopi or Mohave Point is world-famous.

International Dark Sky Park — no light pollution. The Milky Way visible from 9pm June-July. Yavapai Geology Museum hosts free ranger stargazing talks.

The Grand Canyon IMAX film gives geological and cultural context before you see the real thing. Worth seeing the night you arrive.

The last town bypassed by I-40. Red Garter B&B in an 1897 bordello building. Rod's Steak House since 1946. Walking the original main street feels like time travel.

The Eagles "Take It Easy" corner with the mural and flatbed Ford. Tiny town, enormous charm. The La Posada Hotel nearby is one of the great Harvey Houses — have lunch.

Ancient wood turned to crystal over 200 million years. Straddles Rt 66/I-40 — free with America the Beautiful pass. The painted desert section at dawn is unearthly.

Native American trading capital — El Rancho Hotel (1937, where John Wayne and every Western star stayed). Buy Navajo jewelry direct from artists on the sidewalk.

A perfect circular natural pool, 80ft wide, 80°F constant temperature. Crystal clear turquoise water. Completely free. One of the great swimming holes in America.

Stanley Marsh's 1974 art installation — 10 Cadillacs buried nose-first. Bring spray paint (buy in Amarillo). Everyone tags them. Photo at sunrise when the light turns them gold.

72oz steak free if you eat it in 1hr. Don't attempt it. Do watch someone attempt it. Ridiculous, kitsch, and genuinely entertaining. Great steaks at normal sizes too.

Sleep in a concrete wigwam. National Historic Landmark. $80 a night. Completely wonderful and absurd. Book ahead — they fill up.

Opened 2022. Every notebook, manuscript, film, and recording from Dylan's archive. Even non-fans will be stunned. Stay overnight in Tulsa — Brady Arts District for dinner.

Walk the original Route 66 bridge over the Mississippi — closed to cars, pedestrians only. The river views and the fact you're literally walking Route 66 history is extraordinary.

630 feet of stainless steel. Take the tram to the top — tiny windows, heart-in-mouth views. The Museum of Westward Expansion underneath is genuinely excellent.

The grand dame of the South. 1925 Italian Renaissance hotel where ducks march through the lobby twice daily. The rooftop bar and the lobby bar are Memphis institutions. Stay here.

Inside Bass Pro Shops at the Pyramid — yes, really. Treetop cabins and lodge rooms inside a massive glass pyramid. Swimming pool, bowling, fishing. Utterly bizarre. Brilliantly fun.

Converted 1924 building, great bar, walkable to Beale Street. Fun design, solid value. The rooftop has views over Downtown.

Dry rub ribs, pulled pork, smoked turkey — the real Memphis deal. Multiple locations, the Midtown one is the best. The nachos topped with pulled pork are absurdly good.

The most important fried chicken in America. Spicy crust, impeccably juicy, $12 a plate. Queue outside on a plastic chair. Worth every minute. Cash preferred.

Ms Betty Joyce's soul food — fried catfish, smothered pork chops, sweet potato pie. Locals only, almost no tourist footfall. This is real Memphis cooking. Go for lunch.

James Beard-nominated Italian-Southern fusion. The pizza with slow-roasted pork shoulder is remarkable. Great cocktails, creative wine list. Memphis's best upscale dining.

Best local brewery — the Tiny Bomb pilsner is perfect in June heat. Food trucks outside on weekends. Memphis's Midtown neighbourhood is your base for this.

Elvis's home — genuinely extraordinary. The Jungle Room, the Meditation Garden where he's buried, the pink Cadillac collection. Get the "Elvis: The Entertainer" package. Book a time slot online.

Built around the Lorraine Motel where Dr. King was assassinated April 4, 1968. The most powerful museum in America. Two hours minimum — take your time. Deeply moving.

Where Otis Redding, Booker T & the MGs, and Isaac Hayes made their records. A replica of the original studio, Isaac Hayes's gold-plated Cadillac, listening stations for everything recorded here.

Open container laws — walk with a drink. Live blues at every bar, no cover charge. B.B. King's Blues Club, rum boogie Café, Blues City Café. Start at one end and work your way down.

Where Elvis, Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee Lewis, and Roy Orbison all recorded. The original studio is still intact. Tour runs hourly and is genuinely spine-tingling.

Directly on Broadway, rooftop bar with views over the honky-tonk strip and the Cumberland River. The rooftop Founders Room is one of the best bars in Nashville.

2021 opening — the best hotel in Nashville by some margin. Art collection throughout, extraordinary bar, remarkable service. On 4th Avenue, walking distance everywhere.

The Tune rooftop bar here is the most sought-after perch in Nashville for sunset. Great pool, the 1 Hotel inspired design, excellent restaurant below.

1930 art deco building, rooftop pool, independent boutique feel amid the big hotel openings. Intimate, well-designed, excellent location.

The Nashville institution. Start at "Mild" — "Hot" is genuinely painful, "Shut the Cluck Up!!!" is medical emergency territory. Queue down the block but moves fast. The pickle and coleslaw cool you down.

15 miles out on Hwy 100 — the most beloved Southern cooking restaurant in the state. Biscuits made from a 70-year recipe, country ham, fried chicken. Pilgrimage-worthy.

James Beard-nominated raw bar and Southern-coastal cooking in Germantown. The oysters and the gulf shrimp are outstanding. Nashville's finest restaurant full stop.

Meat-and-three cafeteria — the lunch institution since 1983. $12 gets you a protein plus three sides. The turnip greens and cornbread are transcendent. Line out the door, moves fast.

Middle Eastern-influenced eclectic menu in the Nations neighbourhood. The whipped feta is life-changing. Outstanding cocktails. Great for a relaxed dinner away from Broadway.

The Mother Church of Country Music. Check for shows — seeing any act here is extraordinary. The day tour ($30) is excellent — stand on the stage where Hank Williams, Patsy Cline, and Johnny Cash performed.

Tootsies Orchid Lounge (opened 1960), Robert's Western World (best traditional country), Layla's, the Stage. No cover charge anywhere. Live music starts at 10am. Start at one end and drift.

The creative, less touristy side — 5 Points for bars and restaurants, Shelby Park for morning runs along the Cumberland. The Five Points Pizza and Dino's diner are neighbourhood staples.

12 South neighbourhood — the mural everyone photographs. The whole street is excellent — Imogene + Willie denim, Draper James (Reese Witherspoon's store), great coffee at Frothy Monkey.

55-acre botanical garden in a 1929 estate. Summer Blooms in June — wildflowers, sculpture trail, Japanese garden. The mansion interior tour is excellent.

In the former IBM Building designed by Mies van der Rohe. River views from the rooms, the best pool in the city, extraordinary afternoon tea. Serious luxury in a landmark building.

Fulton Market District — Chicago's most interesting neighbourhood for food. The hotel's Longman & Eagle restaurant is legendary. The vibe is artists and food people.

Loop location, rooftop pool, great restaurant (Miss Ricky's). The rooms are cleverly designed with dressing room and bathroom separate from the sleeping area — smart for three people sharing.

Loop location, private rooms available, lake views from some rooms. Organised tours every evening, rooftop access. Consistently rated best hostel in the Midwest.

The best deep dish in the city — butter crust, chunky tomato sauce on top, cheese on the bottom (yes, really). The Magnificent Mile location. 45-minute wait for the pie — order immediately.

Two-Michelin-star Smyth upstairs (book months ahead), and the brilliant burger at The Loyalist bar below. The Loyalist smash burger is ranked among America's finest.

Large communal tables, whole animal cooking, extraordinary oyster selection, Belgian beer list. Sunday brunch here is the greatest meal in Chicago. Book ahead.

Tex-Mex soul food in Wicker Park. Counter seating, incredible enchiladas, the best margaritas in the city. Johnny Cash on the jukebox. Arrive when they open.

Ogilvie Station — indoor market with 30+ vendors. The crepes from Crepe Bistro, cheese from Murray's, coffee from 4 Letter Word. Great quick lunch before an afternoon exploring.

Chicago Architecture Centre's 90-minute boat tour — the most concentrated architecture education available anywhere. 50+ buildings explained by expert docents. Book online the night before.

Cloud Gate by Anish Kapoor — walk underneath it at 7am before crowds. Jay Pritzker Pavilion for free summer concerts. Crown Fountain is brilliant for children (of all ages).

Second largest art museum in the US. Seurat's Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte, Nighthawks by Hopper, American Gothic by Grant Wood. Half a day minimum.

1907 supper club — Al Capone's booth still marked. Sunday night Stomping Steele (11pm onwards) is the best jazz in America. Go late, go twice.

The real Chicago — Damen Avenue for independent shops, Cafe Mustache and Violet Hour for cocktails, Reckless Records for vinyl. The Violet Hour is one of America's great cocktail bars.

Bars and restaurants extending 1.25 miles along the Chicago River. City Winery has a river terrace. Summer evening here with an Architecture Cruise is perfect.

ORD or MDW to JFK/LGA/EWR. Multiple airlines, often $80-150. Easiest but ends the road trip feeling abruptly. Book 3 weeks ahead.

Overnight train — departs Chicago Union Station ~3pm, arrives Penn Station NYC ~9am next day. Private sleeper roomettes available (~$150-250 extra). Dinner in the dining car, lake views through Ohio, wake up in New York. Romantic and unforgettable.

I-90 east — two days via Cleveland and Pittsburgh. Stops: Rock and Roll Hall of Fame in Cleveland (essential), Pittsburgh's incredible bridges and Strip District. Arrive NYC via I-78 through NJ — Manhattan skyline approach unforgettable.

1903 beaux arts building, the most beautiful lobby in New York. NoMad Restaurant is world-renowned. Flatiron location is perfect — walking distance to everything. The library bar is heaven.

The Crown Building on 5th & 57th — 22 floors, 83 rooms, the most expensive hotel in New York. The spa is 25,000 sq ft. For a truly extraordinary two-night splurge.

Converted 1901 cooperage. Brooklyn base — Manhattan views from every room, rooftop bar, Lilia restaurant next door. A different NYC experience, 10 min from Manhattan by subway.

Straddling the High Line with rooms facing the Hudson. The Biergarten below is one of NYC's best outdoor bars. Meatpacking District puts you near Chelsea, West Village, and the Whitney.

Pod 51 (Midtown), Pod Times Square, Pod Brooklyn — cleverly designed compact rooms, excellent locations, rooftop bars. For two weeks, save money here and spend it on experiences.

Titanic survivors were brought here in 1912. Tiny cabin-style rooms — maritime aesthetic, incredibly characterful. The Grand Ballroom nightclub is extraordinary.

Cross from Brooklyn to Manhattan at 6am. The light on the suspension cables, the skyline ahead of you, the East River below. Walk back by subway. The most iconic view in America.

Round trip costs nothing. The Statue of Liberty passes within 200 metres. Manhattan skyline from the water. Sail at sunset — the light on the towers is unforgettable.

Better views than Empire State — because you can see the Empire State from here. Book the sunset-to-night combo ticket. The transition from golden to neon blue is extraordinary.

Row a boat on the Lake, Bethesda Fountain (Angel of Waters), the Ramble for birding, Shakespeare in the Park (free July tickets via lottery), Conservatory Garden in the northeast corner.

Van Gogh's Starry Night, Picasso's Demoiselles d'Avignon, Pollock, Warhol, Cindy Sherman. The redesigned building (2019) is excellent. Friday evenings are free 5:30-9pm.

Elevated park on former railroad tracks through Chelsea and West Side. Art installations, wildflower plantings, Hudson views. Walk from Gansevoort to 34th Street — all downhill.

Water bagels, lox, cream cheese. This is the standard everything else is measured against. The everything bagel with scallion cream cheese will redefine your relationship with the bagel.

Eric Ripert's three Michelin star seafood restaurant on 51st. The most technically perfect meal in New York. Book three months ahead. The barely cooked halibut in a shellfish broth is a religious experience.

1888. When Harry Met Sally orgasm scene was filmed here. The pastrami sandwich ($25) is carved to order, piled 4 inches high. You share. It's still too much food. Get the ticket when you enter.

Former Nabisco factory — The Lobster Place for extraordinary fresh seafood, Los Tacos No. 1 (best quick tacos in NYC), Creamline for milkshakes. Lunch destination for the High Line walk.

The original location — outdoor, under the trees in the park. The ShackBurger and the custard concrete. Sitting in the park eating this in July sunshine — quintessential New York.

July is peak season — book ahead or use the TKTS booth in Times Square for same-day half-price tickets (go at 10am). For the most money: Hamilton or the currently running smash hit. Ask the concierge what's hot when you arrive.

Under the Manhattan Bridge on Washington Street — the bridge frames perfectly against the Manhattan skyline at sunset. The best urban photograph in America. Go 7pm in July.

The most authentic Chinese food outside mainland China. Golden Shopping Mall basement — Xi'an lamb burgers, dumplings for $3, soup dumplings. An entire afternoon. Take the 7 train.

18 miles of books across four floors. The rare book room upstairs, the carts outside (books from $1). Sunday afternoon here — a bookshop that's actually a NYC institution.

Ferry from Lower Manhattan (free weekends before noon) — car-free island with hammock groves, food vendors, art installations, and the best view of Manhattan from distance. A secret city park.

Metropolitan Museum's medieval art branch — a reconstructed monastery on a cliff above the Hudson. The Unicorn Tapestries are here. Completely different NYC experience — go on a quiet weekday.

D train to the end of the line. Nathan's Famous hot dogs (since 1916), the Wonder Wheel, the Cyclone wooden roller coaster, the boardwalk. Peak Americana. June/July, weekday — not too crowded.

No menu. No sign on the door. Ring the bell. Tell the bartender what spirits or flavours you like and they make your drink. Tiny, dark, impeccable. Consistently ranked among the world's best bars.

Missy Robbins's restaurant — mafaldini with pink peppercorn and parmigiano, sheep's milk agnolotti. Possibly the best pasta restaurant in America. Book months ahead or join the walk-in line at 5pm.

Fifth generation Jewish appetising shop, opened 1914. The Super Heebster (whitefish salad, wasabi roe, pickled onions on a bagel) will end your search for meaning. Saturday brunch, be early.

The great New York brasserie — warm lighting, burgundy banquettes, incredible noise, extraordinary food. The steak frites and the bouillabaisse are perfect. Weekend brunch is exceptional.

$3.50 slice, fold it in half New York style. Since 1975. The cheese slice is perfect. This is what pizza is supposed to be. Every other pizza experience is judged against this.

Monday nights — the Vanguard Jazz Orchestra has played every Monday since 1966. $30 + two-drink minimum in the basement. The greatest ongoing jazz event in the world. Book online.

Macy's 4th of July Fireworks over the Hudson River — largest fireworks display in America. Best free views: Weehawken NJ waterfront, Riverside Park, any Hudson pier above 59th St. Arrive by 6pm.

Irish pub downstairs, craft cocktail bar upstairs, multiple times voted world's best bar. The cocktail menu reads like a novella. The Flip Room upstairs is the best bar room in America.